Living Room: New Additions

I was a busy little bee this weekend!  Between my little mirror makeover and the birthday festivities, I still made time for a few changes in the living room.
Not sure if you remember, but since moving in, I have been obsessed with this painting – I ordered it right away of course, and for the last five months, it’s been sitting on the floor, propped against the wall in the living room.  Well this weekend, I hung it!  I tore this photo from my Ballard Designs Catalog, and used it for inspiration when deciding where it would go.
I asked myself, would a lamp be too much in front of the painting?  How high should I hang it?  Should the desk be completely empty to avoid any distractions?
In the end, I decided a few glass containers with beachy contents would do the trick.  I’m not 100% happy with how it is now – I am thinking the smaller container needs more shells, and more sand – it should really be a much larger container filled to the top.  Next to the apothecary jar (a wonderful find at Home Goods) it looks dwarfed, but we are on the right track.  Ideally I’ll be able to find a vase or jar that comes just above the bottom of the painting… on the hunt again…  
Also, don’t mock my photography skills – I know they need some work, but I got a new camera (aka I stole Kris’ fancy schmancy Canon Rebel and new lens) and it sure beats the iphone, right?!

Sunburst Mirror DIY

mainly love the sunburst mirror and upholstered bench
Reason to Breathe


decorpad

stripes and sunburst mirror - love.
styleathome.com

Over the past few months, I’ve developed an unhealthy obsession with sunburst mirrors. I’ve been wanting one for our home for a while, but my biggest challenge was finding one that was affordable!  Apparently I was not the only person having a love affair with these gorgeous mirrors because every store I went to was trying to sell these babies for several hundred dollars each…

After much hunting, I found one from Bed Bath & Beyond, and forty bucks later it was mine… all mine!
Sunburst Mirror
The problem??  The god awful fake patina finish.   Unfortunately, I got a bit too excited in the moment, and I forgot to take a “before” picture, so it’s hard to see in this stock picture I pulled from their site.  Trust me when I say that it had a cheesy “Olive Garden faux finish” – not that there is anything wrong with the Olive Garden… just saying.

The easy fix?  Paint it!  A quick trip to Michaels, and a few materials later, I was ready to refinish.  Here is what you will need:

     – Martha Stewart liquid gilding paint (I got both the brass gold and silver to mix)
     – Small foam brush
     – Newspaper (or in my case grocery bags)
     – Small container to mix – use something you don’t mind throwing away; that way, keep clean up is easy

Anyways, this is a super simple project – I think it took me only one hour from start to finish.
I poured the paints into my little plastic container and after mixing them up, just started dabbing it on (Don’t judge, my disposable container I used was the plastic packaging the paint came in… it worked!) Because the patina’ed rays of the sunburst were slick (covered in some sort of plastic to protect the precious finish I suppose), I found that dabbing the paint as it started to get tacky gave the most even coverage, and resulted in a perfectly imperfect surface.  Keep in mind, I was not going for perfection here – I really wanted the surface to resemble something that had been left out in the shed over the winter.  
The pictures below show one coat so you can still see a touch of the streaky dark patina still peeking through.

Keep in mind that the Martha Stewart liquid gilding paint dries fast… REALLY fast.  It says it takes an hour to fully dry, but it’s definitely dry to the touch within 30 minutes or so.

Overall I’m really happy with how this quick mirror makeover turned out, and I’m so excited to hang it up!

Bedroom Furniture Transformation

It’s done!  Wooo Hoooo!!!!  After months (literally months) of living in a fine layer of dust from continual sanding, the bedroom furniture is finished, and we no longer have 10 drawers, two nightstands, and an armoire in our living room!

You have no idea what this means, and the intense feeling of satisfaction I have at having completed this never ending project!  The pictures don’t even portray the 180 degree change that has occurred, but take look at the transformation!!
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Let’s start at the beginning, and I’ll take you through the process:
November 2011: Empty out all clothing into cardboard box from which I will live out of for the next four months.  Four. Long. Months.
Ok, moving past that…
Remove the drawers and patch the holes with a wood putty.  Be sure you are working with a clean, dry, dust free surface.  Also, be sure to invest in a putty knife – it will make the putty fill the hole tightly, and prevent the need for 3 or 4 rounds of patching.  Because the holes were pretty deep, I had to get my hands dirty, and really pack the putty in the hole (roughly 1cm deep).  The patching took some serious time as each drawer had two holes per pull.  Putty should take around 2 hours to dry, but per my dad’s suggestion, 48 hours means it is fully cured (putty in the middle of the hole will be dry as well – not just the putty on the outside of the drawer).  The drawer below has been patched once.  Because the holes were deep, they needed more than one round of putty, so below, we were looking for coverage, not perfection.
Once the first round with the wood putty dries, sand down until smooth.  Sand with a fairly heavy grade sandpaper as the goal here is to strip off the old paint, and prep the holes for another layer of putty.  You can see in the below photo, that a good amount of paint was removed around the holes.  Once the drawer is smooth, and the putty has been sanded flush with the drawer, apply a second layer of putty.  Here I used a finer grade filler than wood putty to be sure there were no visible dimples in the wood from the filled holes.  Use a putty knife to apply again, but be sure to pack the putty tight, and feather out at the edge.  
Once the second layer of putty is dry, use a fine grit sand paper or a sanding block to lightly sand down.  Be patient here, and use uniform pressure while sanding the full length of the drawer face.  By doing so, you will avoid imperfections caused by uneven sanding.  This part will be messy – the dust coming off gets everywhere so be sure to prep the area with a drop cloth, and wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty.  By the end of the day, you will look as though you got wild with baby powder.  Also, a mask isn’t a bad idea, to avoid inhaling the dust… hindsight is 20/20.
Keep a close eye on the drawers as the putty wears down.  You will see a slight circle form around the patched hole and this indicates that its flush, or pretty darn close (the first picture below gives a good example – look at the hole on the right; it’s almost like a halo around the patch).  
Run your fingers over the holes to gauge when the patch is flush with the drawer.  I found it helpful to close my eyes when running my fingers over the holes – by eliminating sight, I was better able to feel any imperfections.  There were several instances (especially in the beginning) where I over-sanded and had to go re-patch and re-sand the hole, but one do-over early is better than going back after its been painted and you see the dimple of the original hole.  Trust me.

Once everything is sanded, make sure you clean up well before moving on to paint.  Any dust when painting could ruin the coat, so shake out and wash your drop cloths, sweep, mop, and dust EVERYTHING.  Once everything is cleaned up, prep to paint.

Invest in some tack cloth (a super sticky cheese cloth – find it at Home Depot) to wipe down each piece before painting.  It will essentially grab every last particle of dust for a clean start.

For furniture that gets heavier usage – nightstands, dressers, kitchen tables, etc – use oil based paint.  It’s more durable than water based paint, and though its a pain to clean up, you will save yourself from having to re-sand and re-paint chipped surfaces in a few months.

With the oil based paint, invest in a natural bristle brush – I used a 1.5″ with angled tip on the drawers and 2.5″ flat tip for the dresser and nightstands.  I chose an angled tip because of all the beveled surfaces – the angle makes it easier to cut in.  For large pieces with flat edges, a flat brush would be just fine.  Do not get a brush with synthetic bristles – these brushes will lose their shape in oil based paints and primers.  Also, do not try to save money here – splurge on a good brush that won’t shed bristles into your pieces while painting.
Ok… moving on.  Tape off the edges to ensure a clean line – messy edges take away from having the piece look professional.  Look at the bottom of these drawers – you can see the over-spray from their original paint job… a lovely shade of guacamole.  Ooh la la.  🙂
In the below close up photo, also note that the full drawer front has been sanded – to the touch it needs to be smooth otherwise you’ll be going back to redo everything.
*A quick note on sanding the paint – unless there is severe damage and it all needs to come off, you will see how much to sand based on how much paint flakes off, and how rough it feels between the paint and what lies underneath…
Put on your paint clothes and PIN LONG HAIR BACK.  Another tough lesson for this blonde – while leaned over, I dipped my ponytail into the paint… thus painting got put on hold while I made an emergency trip to the salon (another story for another day).
Because these drawers had already been painted black, I skipped the priming step.  Some might feel this is wrong, but my dad assured me they would be fine, and right he was.  If you are painting over a very light color with dark paint, or a bright color, prime with oil based primer.  If not, this step may not be necessary.
I started on the flat surfaces with the larger brush and finished up on the beveled edges with the smaller angled brush.

Do not skimp on the paint.  I did two coats on most drawers – a few needed three coats for extra coverage; especially on the drawers that got sanded down to the original green paint.  
In addition to painting the drawers, I was working on the nightstands and armoire – you can see in a few of these pics how many layers of paint I made it through (black, and creme, and green… oh my!)

On to the home stretch.  Unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the final steps, but it’s pretty simple.
Step I: Let paint dry 🙂
While the paint dries, prep for the finishing touches.  I bought pulls (one per small drawer, and two per large drawer).  You can splurge here, but I actually found a steal at Target – 14 pulls for ~$30.  That would be ~$2 per pull – a vast difference from Restoration Hardware’s $7/pull, and I swear to you, they are identical!! 
I also do not want to put myself through this process again while we live in a 1BR apartment in San Francisco, so I ordered custom cut glass to protect the tops of the nightstands and dresser.  Go as thin as you can with the glass, but be sure its not going to be brittle.  We got 3/16″ thick sheets of glass, and be sure you have the glass manufacturer round the edges – the last thing you want is to cut yourself on the edges!
Once we picked up the glass and had the pulls in hand, we got out the measuring tape, and grabbed some paper, because it was time to drill some holes.  Double and triple check your math and measurements, because once the hole is drilled, there is no going back – with stacked drawers, one slight error will mean the pulls won’t line up!  I really wish I had snapped a few shots of this, but we used painters tape around where we thought the holes might be.  With a measuring tape, we were able to mark on the painters tape where the holes would be, and drilled right through the tape.  Having tape there also helped prevent the wood from splintering or splitting so it was perfect!  With the holes drilled, we screwed in the pulls, polished the glass and carefully put it in place!
So that’s it!  Four months of sacrificed weekends, furniture in the living room, and ravaged manicures… and it was SO WORTH IT!

Living Room Transformation!

BEFORE:

AFTER

The curtains in the living room are up, and what a difference they make!!

For a twenty-something, who works in advertising, and makes a modest salary… this is an incredible way to finish a room.  Yeah, yeah, yeah… I really need a new camera other than my iPhone, so these pictures aren’t great, but it paints the picture. You can see how bare and empty the living room felt sans curtains, and how alive it feels with them.

Honestly, I feel like curtains are like eyebrows – they frame the most important stuff, so if they aren’t there, your face (or the room in this case) just feels weird and empty!  Good analogy right?

Also, I firmly believe that there is nothing more elegant than a good pair of silk curtains, and you really don’t have to shell out a fortune for them.  I got these from Bed Bath & Beyond – not so glamorous, but no one else has to know!  They were $50 per panel for $200 total – pretty good for fully lined, silk curtains.  The rods and hardware is from Ikea of all places – super inexpensive ($10 for the rod, and $5 for the glass finial).  Let’s compare prices:

  • On a Budget: $238 Total
    • Curtains: Bed Bath and Beyond
      • $50 each (four curtains)
    • Rods: Ikea
      • $15 Long (one)
      • $9 Short (two)
    • Finial: Ikea
      • $5 (two ends)
  • Money is No Object: $766 Total
    • Curtains: Pottery Barn
      • $120 each (four curtains)
    • Rods: Pottery Barn (includes finial)
      • $98 Long (one)
      • $90 Short (two)

That is over 3x less money that I can go spend on something else that is more important – like a new sofa, or an amazing tufted headboard for our bedroom – it takes a little more time and hunting to find the deal, but it’s so worth it!

The Apartment is slowly Evolving!

Last night, I toiled with my toolbox for about an hour to mount a curtain rod in our living room.  I don’t have an electric drill, so I manually screwed in the mounts which was a huge undertaking, but SO worth it!  The walls in the old San Francisco apartments are made of lath and plaster, so getting the screw secure in there feels like drilling through concrete!

In the end, my gorgeous creme colored silk curtains are hanging – this is a terrible picture – the lights are washing everything out, but they have made a HUGE difference.  I’ve found that paying the extra dollars for the longest curtains (95″ as opposed to the standard 84″) makes the room look taller and feel bigger.  The floor to ceiling drapes give the room a more “grand” feeling – I love it!

Tonight, I am tackling the full wall of windows – I am trying to decide if I should do two curtains, each framing the entire window, or if I should do four curtains – one on each side of each window.  I am going to have to try a few different things here – I don’t want to make it look like too much, but also want to be sure it looks complete. The apartment is slowly coming together to feel like a home – this weekend, I plan to paint the crown molding a sharp, bright white to contrast with the off white walls and make the detail really pop.  I also want to get the art up on the wall, and possibly take off the kitchen door so we can get more counter space in there!

Soo excited for all my mini home-improvement projects!